Yo, Yo, Yo... Spirits are running high in Costa today... 4, count'm, 4 days till Gators/Bama!!! Surf has been epic for the last 5 days, with a huge swell on the way starting tomorrow... We are in the heart of the rainy season, and it has been blue skies for the last 4 days with no rain! Thor took his first on Saturday, 3 months and not afraid of anything, even gunshots! Too bad slightly is not playing on Friday night, that could cap off a sick week.
So back to the mundane, Peanut is starting to bother me! That kid has no respect for my sleep!!! For the last few nights, she has been waking up Sarah through a long karate combo, then persists to beat on Sarah's stomach for a few hours. To top that off, Thor has had some stomach problems and been getting us up to go outside a few times, and Mackie wouldn't come home two nights ago and at 2AM he started howling at our neighbors again, so I had to get dressed grab the flashlight and walk around the neighborhood to get him... At least the waves have been good.
So, a very short blob about surfing progression, as partly I am documenting our time here for personal future reference, and it will be nice to look back and track my progression to professional surfing one step at a time... This week things are starting to really come together. Backside cutbacks are now hitting the foam and throwing tail, keeping the wave. Frontside, I am going way faster than I ever thought possible and pulling man-overs I wouldn't have tried before living here. Lots of late reentry turns, arials are staying on my feet, and pulling a few, 360s are now not uncommon. I am now top of the second tier as I see it. Only a small group of folks surf noticably better, and they are the best at their breaks. I can't wait for 6 more months.
As for getting to the states, we have a driver lined up to get us to San Jose, a place to stay that accepts pups and spots on a plane for Friday morning. Pray for clean and friendly skies! We will be at Dixon's on Friday night, leaving for Momma's on Sunday morning. Be in S. Aug on Thursday, staying through Wednesday morning and then to S. Fla. Flying back to the Costa on the 18th.
So back to the mundane, Peanut is starting to bother me! That kid has no respect for my sleep!!! For the last few nights, she has been waking up Sarah through a long karate combo, then persists to beat on Sarah's stomach for a few hours. To top that off, Thor has had some stomach problems and been getting us up to go outside a few times, and Mackie wouldn't come home two nights ago and at 2AM he started howling at our neighbors again, so I had to get dressed grab the flashlight and walk around the neighborhood to get him... At least the waves have been good.
So, a very short blob about surfing progression, as partly I am documenting our time here for personal future reference, and it will be nice to look back and track my progression to professional surfing one step at a time... This week things are starting to really come together. Backside cutbacks are now hitting the foam and throwing tail, keeping the wave. Frontside, I am going way faster than I ever thought possible and pulling man-overs I wouldn't have tried before living here. Lots of late reentry turns, arials are staying on my feet, and pulling a few, 360s are now not uncommon. I am now top of the second tier as I see it. Only a small group of folks surf noticably better, and they are the best at their breaks. I can't wait for 6 more months.
As for getting to the states, we have a driver lined up to get us to San Jose, a place to stay that accepts pups and spots on a plane for Friday morning. Pray for clean and friendly skies! We will be at Dixon's on Friday night, leaving for Momma's on Sunday morning. Be in S. Aug on Thursday, staying through Wednesday morning and then to S. Fla. Flying back to the Costa on the 18th.


<< Home